Is your car battery dead? Need a new car battery? Learn how to test if your car battery is bad and how to recharge a dead car battery. Also learn which car battery is best for your car. In this video I show you how to test your car battery with a multimeter, clean corrosion from the battery terminals, test your alternator, test for a parasitic draw, load test a battery, and replace a car battery properly. I also show the inside of a car battery with a bad cell and I show how batteries work with multiple grids and how they go bad with heat, vibration and corrosion. And finally I show you the main difference between the different grades of battery and which is right for you.

Tools and Products:
DieHard Battery: http://bit.ly/DieHard-Batteries-Chris-Fix
Felt Corrosion Protectors: http://bit.ly/DieHard-Felt-Terminal-Protectors
Battery Load Tester: http://bit.ly/Schumacher-Battery-Load-Tester
Multimeter: http://bit.ly/innova-multimeter
Battery maintainer: http://bit.ly/battery-maintainer
Battery Charger: http://bit.ly/Schumacher-battery-charger

→ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
→ Become a ChrisFix Subscriber: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=paintballoo7
→ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chrisfixit
→ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chrisfix8
→ Website: http://www.ChrisFixed.com
→ My Channel Home Page: https://www.youtube.com/ChrisFix

**If the video was helpful, remember to give it a “thumbs up” and consider subscribing.**

Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.

source

37 thoughts on “How to Test and Replace a Bad Car Battery (COMPLETE Ultimate Guide)”
  1. As far as I know in many modern cars if you just disconnect the battery the ICU will reset/lost memory. Then it will take time to relearn. One way to prevent these problems during a battery change is to utilize a memory saver to keep the vehicle powered throughout the swap.

  2. Doesnt really know electronics, you should always when installing connect the black Neg cable first, when removing a Batt. always disconnect the Red Positive cable first.

  3. i think my yaris have the same issue as the mustang can i charge the battery or i have to replace it?, because its kinda expensive to buy new battery.

  4. Every other video on YouTube has them removing the positive terminal first. This is why I dislike google and YouTube because so much conflicting information.

  5. Both my cars have dim headlights, would bad battery be the cause or can it be other things too?i have changed bulbs and it is still dim

  6. Excellent video, like anything else it may not be the battery or alternator. How about the serpentine belt as a problem. With a 2011 traverse, checking or changing one is a challenge. At 77yrs old trying to remount a 20in tire is challenging. A $30 belt can easily turn into a $100-200 job.

  7. Does the battery corrosion need to be removed with 1 of the ends disconnect? Or can they both stay attached with no problem? I didn't see it.. so I'm a bit curios as to if it was detached before starting on the cleaning..

  8. What if the car doesn't click at all or make any sound when youbtry to turn tge key? My cheverlete truck doesn't make any noise at all when I try to start it no clicking and no lights ar all? Could it be tge alternator or something else? My truck us 22 yrs old?

  9. Here is the detailed list with the instructions as steps:

    Diagnose the Cause of a Dead Battery:

    1. Figure out why your battery went dead.

    2. Determine if the battery itself is bad or if another problem in the car is causing a draw.

    Test Your Alternator:

    1. Start the car.

    2. Check the battery voltage; it should be between 13.6 and 14.6 volts.

    3. If voltage is above 14.6 volts, the voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad.

    4. If voltage is below 13.6 volts, check the voltage at the alternator itself.

    5. If the alternator voltage is low, the alternator may be the problem.

    6. If the alternator voltage is normal but low at the battery, check the connection and wiring between the alternator and the battery.

    Test for Parasitic Draw:

    1. Make sure everything in the car is off, including interior lights and headlights.

    2. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

    3. Set your multimeter to DC amps and connect the leads to bridge the gap between the negative terminal and the battery cable.

    4. Wait at least 15 minutes for the car to go to sleep.

    5. Check the amp draw on the multimeter; it should be 50 milliamps or less.

    6. If the draw is higher, identify the source by pulling fuses one by one and checking the multimeter.

    7. If pulling a fuse reduces the draw, that circuit has the parasitic draw.

    8. If no fuse reduces the draw, check the alternator cable for a draw.

    Clean Battery Terminals:

    1. Ensure terminal connectors are tight by giving them a wiggle.

    2. Check terminals for cleanliness and corrosion.

    3. Use warm water and baking soda to make a slurry.

    4. Brush down the posts and surrounding area with the slurry to neutralize any acid.

    5. Loosen the connection and remove the terminal.

    6. Sand down the terminals using 180 grit sandpaper, an abrasive pad, or a metal wire brush.

    7. Brush the wire end on the outside and inside to reveal fresh metal.

    8. Use felt terminal protectors to help prevent corrosion.

    9. Apply silicone grease to the terminal ends to make them waterproof and corrosion-free.

    Test the Battery Voltage:

    1. Set your multimeter to 12 or more DC volts.

    2. Connect the red prong to the positive terminal and the black prong to the negative terminal.

    3. Check the voltage; it should be between 12.4 and 12.6 volts for a fully charged battery.

    4. If voltage is lower than 12 volts, the battery may be bad, the alternator may be faulty, or there could be a parasitic draw.

    Charge the Battery:

    1. Connect the battery to a charger.

    2. Charge the battery until it reaches 12.6 volts.

    3. Disconnect the charger and check if the battery holds the charge.

    4. If the voltage drops quickly, the battery likely has a bad cell.

    Replace the Battery:

    1. Ensure you get the correct replacement battery by checking the owner's manual or the old battery for group size and cold cranking amps.

    2. Always disconnect the negative terminal first.

    3. Disconnect the positive terminal.

    4. Remove the tie-down securing the battery.

    5. Remove the old battery from the car.

    6. Clean the battery tray and surrounding area.

    7. Place the new battery in the tray.

    8. Secure the new battery with the tie-down.

    9. Reconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal.

    10. Apply silicone grease to the terminal ends.

    11. Verify the replacement by starting the car and checking the clock and radio stations.

    Maintain the Battery:

    1. Use a trickle charger for cars not used frequently to maintain the battery charge.

    2. Ensure the trickle charger is connected to the battery when the car is parked for long periods.

    Load Test the Battery:

    1. Connect the load tester to the battery.

    2. Set the tester to the appropriate cold cranking amps for the battery.

    3. Check the reading; if the cold cranking amps are significantly lower than rated, the battery needs replacement.

    Recycle Old Batteries:

    1. Return the old battery to the store for a core charge refund.

    2. Alternatively, take the old battery to a local scrapyard for recycling and to receive payment.

  10. such great advice. Learned a little more about the basics even though this is a topic I'm very comfortable with already. You always give great advice and have a fun way to explaining it. Love these videos. I hope you continue making them

  11. Today I just replaced the battery on my 1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I used my battery tester to test my other battery and it says 106 CCA Replace. So I went to my local auto parts store and bought a brand new battery, i installed a brand new battery and now my car finally starts right up a lot faster!

  12. Great video very informative.
    I'd also add that checking the battery's date is a good step 1 when considering whether its bad or just flat.
    Also if the voltage drops below about 9.5V while starting its also likely going bad.
    my golf 1 for example still starts fine but the other day it died when I switched on the high beams while driving. I suspected the alternator initially but the battery is 5 years old soooo😂

  13. My 2014 Ram 2500 battery just read 12.3vdc and won't turn over. Is that too little voltage? Dash lights up but won't crank. Just drove it yesterday. Thanks and fantastic video.

Comments are closed.